Project Bicycle Wheel: Part 2

It took some time coming, but I finally finished my bicycle wheel project. Come to find out - it has been done since my last post on the subject.

I started out thinking that I would make a lamp out of my beaded-up bicycle wheel. I decided to purchase an inexpensive bottle lamp kit. I pulled the axle, rod, and bearings out of the wheel hub and wired the lamp through the hub:


At first, I was pretty excited about how well it was coming together. When I put a small light bulb in the socket, however, I did not like the way it was starting to look. The bulb seemed out of place and awkward. I experimented with different ways to cover the bulb. I hung beaded strings from the spokes similar to a chandelier. I also made a shade out of spare bicycle cassettes. I was not happy with the way things were looking so I decided to put the project aside until something inspired me.

It wasn't until I moved out of my apartment and into a house, when I had my wired-up bike wheel hanging out on the floor next to my dining table, that I realized why I was not satisfied with the wheel: I liked it much better when I was not trying to force my original idea of turning the wheel into a lamp. I liked it better as a simple piece of wall art. I disassembled the lamp kit, grabbed a nail and hung the old wheel with paper bead spokes on the wall over my dining room table. I like the way it looks and the brightly colored beads add a nice bit of color to an otherwise bland room.

It took awhile to figure out that I already had what I wanted out of the project almost from the beginning: a fun piece of art made out of an old bicycle wheel.

Crochet Lace Wrap/Scarf

I finally finished crocheting my first lace-weight wrap/scarf. As mentioned in my previous blog post, crocheting with such a light weight yarn takes a bit of getting used to and I felt a bit clumsy at first. I eventually got into the swing of things and my efforts finally paid off. I have a lovely wool wrap that can double as a scarf.

I used lace-weight wool from Knit Picks and a C2/2.75mm crochet hook. The stitches are a very delicate fan pattern that I found in a book on my bookshelf: Super Stitches Crochet by Jennifer Campbell and Ann-Marie Bakewell. I simply followed the pattern until the wrap was 15 inches wide and repeated the pattern until the wrap was approximately 65 inches long. The fan pattern is fantastic using lace-weight yarn.

The wrap is going to be a gift so I made a matching pair of earrings using magazine paper like those in my Earrings on a Whim project. I lucked out by finding a magazine ad almost the exact same color as the yarn I was using.

Gift giving and receiving is so much more satisfying when gifts are handmade. Unfortunately, I did not have the forethought to get started on my gift making early enough this year to include everyone on my list, but I loved working with this yarn so much that I am sure my friends and family may see some wraps and scarves coming their way in the near future!

Below are pictures of the lace wrap and paper bead earrings:

Lace Weight Yarn

I recently purchased lace weight yarn for the first time and I am looking forward to completing my first project. My favorite material to crochet is wool and I have been curious lately about lace crochet. I decided to pick up some lace weight wool and make light wraps and scarves as holiday gifts. A scarf is one of the best fashion accessories so I am looking forward to building up my own collection as well.

The yarn is so light and delicate feeling that it took a bit if getting used to, but I am very happy with my results so far. I was a bit of a clod when first starting out. I pulled a bit too hard when unraveling my first crochet attempt and I actually broke the yarn - twice. The wool, once crocheted, is so soft and and delicate looking that it is worth the minor aggravation of working with such a light weight yarn.

The photo below is the beginning of an oversized scarf. The yarn I am using is Knit Picks Shadow Lace 100% Merino wool in Hot Rod Heather. I will post the results of my scarf when it is finished, but I couldn't resist showing off my new and beautiful yarn in the mean time.

If anyone has any tips about working with lace weight yarn I would love to hear them!

Crochet Pattern: Yoga Tote

I don't do yoga, but I do use a yoga mat for various other forms of exercise. Many mats now come with a little mesh tote bag, but mine did not. I decided to crochet my own tote bag using some yarn that had been hanging out on my yarn storage shelf for quite some time. This is a great project for using yarn you don't really know what to do with. Scrap yarn would work well also.

The pattern is pretty simple using a single crochet stitch for the base, top, and strap of the tote. The body of the tote is simply a mesh pattern, which crochets quickly. I also added a drawstring at the top to tie the bag closed.

**Start instructions

Materials & Notions
6 balls worsted weight 100% cotton (95 yds./2 oz. each)
G/6 - 4.25mm hook
Stitch marker
Yarn needle

Notes
Some yoga mats come in longer lengths. This pattern is for a standard sized mat. You can modify the pattern to add rows to the mesh part of the tote (the body of the bag) to make it longer. It is helpful to place the mat in the tote at various points in the pattern.

I used two different patterned yarns for this tote. I used one patterned yarn for the top and base of the bag and the other patterned yarn for the body and strap of the bag. I do not make note of the yarn changes in this pattern since it is entirely optional. Use your own best judgement and do what makes you happy.

Mark the first stitch of each row with the stitch marker. There is no joining in order to prevent a visible seam.

Base
Chain 4, slip stitch in beginning chain to create a ring
Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring (8 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc each st around (16 sts)
Rnd 3: *1 sc in first st, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (24 sts)
Rnd 4: *1 sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (32 sts)
Rnd 5: *1 sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (40 sts)
Rnd 6: *1 sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (48 sts)
Rnd 7: *1 sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (56 sts)
Rnd 8: *1 sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (64 sts)
Rnd 9: *1 sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (72 sts)
Rnd 10: *1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st*; repeat from * around (80 sts)
Rnd 11: 1 sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each remaining st (81 sts)
Rnds 12-25: sc each st around

Mesh Body
Rnd 26: sl st in 1st st, chain 4, *sk next 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2*; repeat from * around
(note: when starting rnd 27, make sure to dc in the 2nd ch of the 1st stitch)
Rnds 27-58: *1 dc, ch 2 in next st, sk next 2 sts*; repeat from * around

Top
Rnds 59-79: sc in each st around (81 sts)

Fasten off.

Drawstring
I intentionally did not crochet drawstring holes into this pattern because I did not think they were needed; they would have created larger spaces than what I wanted. The space between each sc is small enough to keep the drawstring from falling out of the tote and large enough to slide the drawstring when loosening and tightening the bag.

Cut 6 strands of yarn approximately 30in. in length (best to cut longer so you can make it shorter later on if necessary). Place all 6 strands together and knot one end. Divide the strands into 3 groups of 2 and braid the yarn. Knot the other end to keep the braid from loosening.

With the tote right-side facing, approx. 2in. from the top of the tote, insert the drawstring through one sc space from inside to outside. Skip 10 spaces and weave the drawstring through the next sc space from outside to inside. Repeat all the way around and you should end up with the other end of the braid/drawstring hanging on the outside of the tote next to the starting end.

Make sure that when the top is fully open there is still approx. an inch left over of each end braid so that you do not have to worry about losing the drawstring. Knot both ends once or twice more so that the end knots are larger than the sc spaces you just weaved them through. This will also help keep them in place.

Strap
Chain 8
Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each st across, turn, ch 1 (7 sts)
Rnds 2-85: sc in each st across, turn, ch 1
Rnd 86: sc in each sts across, fasten off.

Right-side facing:
With a yarn needle and yarn, sew one end of the strap to the 1st sc row of the top pattern just above the mesh pattern. Lining up the strap so that is straight, sew the other end of the strap to the last row of the base sc pattern, just below the mesh pattern. I used a basic whip stitch, but the type of stitch is optional.

Tie off and weave in all ends.

**End instructions

Crochet Pattern: Easy Beanie

I like to crochet beanie's when I want a quick crochet project. Beanie's can be done in a day so if you like instant gratification like I do than a crochet beanie is the way to go.

This is a simple pattern consisting of single crochet stitches in the back loop only (this is abbreviated as sc-blo in the pattern). I added a crochet blanket stitch to the edge for some extra added cuteness, but the edging is optional.

I like to use superwash wool for my beanies to keep stitch definition and to not get a felted look over time. Knit Picks has great variety of superwash wool and many colors to choose from.

**Start instructions

Materials & Notions
2 balls DK weight 100% Superwash Merino Wool (123yds/50g each)
1 long scrap strand of same material yarn in contrasting color (optional edging)
E/4 - 3.50mm hook
Stitch marker
Yarn needle

Notes
This pattern can be modified by adding rounds and increasing the stitch count by 8 on each round for a larger head and by adding additional rounds for a longer length. I created this pattern for my head specifically, which is about 21 3/8 in. in circumference.

Mark the first stitch of each row with the stitch marker. There is no joining in order to prevent a visible seam.

Pattern
With main color: chain 4, slip stitch in beginning chain to create a ring

Rnd 1: 8 sc in ring (8 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc-blo each st around (16 sts)
Rnd 3: *1 sc-blo in first st, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (24 sts)
Rnd 4: *1 sc-blo in next 2 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (32 sts)
Rnd 5: *1 sc-blo in next 3 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (40 sts)
Rnd 6: *1 sc-blo in next 4 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (48 sts)
Rnd 7: *1 sc-blo in next 5 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (56 sts)
Rnd 8: *1 sc-blo in next 6 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (64 sts)
Rnd 9: *1 sc-blo in next 7 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (72 sts)
Rnd 10: *1 sc-blo in next 8 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (80 sts)
Rnd 11: *1 sc-blo in next 9 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (88 sts)
Rnd 12: *1 sc-blo in next 10 sts, 2 sc-blo in next st*; repeat from * around (96 sts)
Rnds 13-42: sc-blo in each st around

Tie off main color yarn (weave in ends and call it done if you don't want to continue with the optional edging).

Edging
This blanket stitch consists of 1 slip stitch in each of 3 sts and 1 sc with the hook inserted into the third row from the bottom just over the next stitch. This creates a longer spike after every third slip stitch - you can make the spike longer or shorter by choosing how high you insert the hook for the sc spike.

With beanie wrong-side facing, join contrasting color strand of yarn to the first st on the last row.

Slip stitch in next 2 sts, 1 sc-spike in third row from the bottom over the next st, *slip stitch in next 3 sts, 1 sc-spike in third row from the bottom over next st*; repeat from * around.

Fasten off and weave in ends.

**End instructions

Project Bicycle Wheel: Part 1

I mentioned a couple of weeks ago that I had an unused bicycle wheel sitting around my apartment. I have been trying to figure out what I want to do with it. I have many ideas, but I am leaning towards making it into a hanging ceiling light.

Lately I have been spending a lot of time making paper beads. I decided I should put some of those beads to use and bead up the spokes of my wheel. The only thing I needed to buy was a spoke wrench. I went down to a local bike shop and picked up a Park Tool triple spoke wrench for less than $10.

There are 36 spokes on this particular wheel and the beads are about 1 1/4 in. long. I was able to fit 8 beads per spoke so I used 288 beads to bead up one bicycle wheel.

I am still deciding what I want to do about a light fixture. I could probably wire it up with a lamp kit, but I am thinking about another option of winding a string of small LED lights around the rim of the wheel. I also need to decide with what I want to hang the wheel/light. I may use an old bicycle chain or I may just use a some other kind of standard metal chain.

I still have a bit of work to do and some decisions to make, but for now here are some pictures of what I have so far:





I will post the final results when I finish the project.

Carlson Memorial Bridge

My family seems to be much better at finishing projects than I am. I recently received an email containing a completed project that Lisa and Steve Carlson have been talking about for quite some time now. Lisa and Steve Carlson live in Hinesburg, VT (just outside of Burlington, VT) near Lake Iroquois. They built their house roughly 25 years ago and have about 10 acres of beautiful woodsy land. Lisa wanted an interesting way to enjoy some of the wooded area that surrounds her house. So the idea of a hanging bridge was born.

Below are pictures (click for larger images) and a description of the building process in Lisa's own words:

"Our Property is shaped like a right-hand mitten with a ravine down the middle. It has fairly steep sides and a fern-filled bog at the bottom. Our year-round house is at the base of the little finger. To get to the lake (over at the end of the thumb), we have always had to use the road to go around. A walk across the beautiful fern-filled glen seemed like a spectacular idea. Hence, our hanging bridge project. I've told the kids, it might also be a lovely place to scatter our cremated remains when the time comes.

Dan Devine, our carpenter, was given free rein to plan the bridge and tree platforms. I thought the spiral design was rather ingenious. After emailing these pics to our oldest son (who has a tree house book and has built one for his kids), Stuart said that Dan should be sure to leave at least two inches between the platform and tree for growth. He suggested a 2" section of 1" pipe as a spacer for the bolts. Dan quickly and gratefully incorporated that idea.



Once Dan had the flooring on the tree platforms, he worked on the "gateways" on each side of the ravine - a concrete pad with rebar and eyebolts imbedded for the cables.



After the cables were strung (barely visible here), Dan finished the railings around the platforms.



The way the braces and platforms were designed, the cable holding up the walkways could go around the tree through the framing without girding or strangling the tree.



Dan mass-produced the four-foot sections of the walkways. They were attached to the cables with U-bolts.




There are four tree platforms in all. The highest one is about 20 feet off the ground. It is about 250 feet from one side of the ravine to the other.




After everything was up, the pull of the hand-rail ropes on the platform posts was a bit worrisome, so we added cables from the post on one side of the platform up through a higher screw-eye on the tree and then down to the post on the other side to balance the pull. Good thing Dan made the posts as high as he did. In hindsight, they could have been a bit higher.



Oops! The stretch of bridge attached to this gateway was longer and steeper than any of the others. After Dan had the cables and tread attached, the concrete platform would rock when someone walked out on the bridge, necessitating a doubling of the concrete (a bit deeper, too) and a second set of eye-bolts and cables.



That kept it in the ground!



Now it's done! One gateway is at the bottom of our lawn next to the snow-shoe swing.



Looking back...



Ice clips on the hand-rail rope:



The pressure-treated lumber and many supplies came from our local building company. We needed such a quantity of U-bolts, however, that we shopped online and ended up getting them from a local Grainger Industrial Supply store, though they had to order even more for us. Be sure to have a business make the purchase.

The metal hooks that hold the X-ed barrier ropes to the hand-rail rope are called "ice clips" that we got from Incord in Connecticut. We probably could have saved some money if we'd simply looped the smaller rope over the hand-rail, but for some reason this seemed like the right thing to do.

The hand-rail rope and the barrier rope came from Knot and Rope Supply in Ohio. The local folks had only white or yellow rope, no black or other unobtrusive color for our nature walk.

Because of the large quantity needed, we ordered screw-eyes online from Ace Hardware but found them through Amazon.com. They were used to hold barrier ropes to the treads. I thought I'd seen an appropriate driver for Dan to use with his cordless drill, but none of the local hardware stores had one. So clever Dan invented one of his own. He took a small hole-saw and simply cut off the saw end, leaving him with a slotted cylinder that would fit over the screw-eye.

The barrier ropes were zip-tied in the middle of the X. We ordered 1,000 of the 4" black zip ties from the 9thTee in North Carolina. Haven't used them all, but that was the best buy.

The patterns in the bottom of the glen are just glorious."

For a few more pictures, check out Jacob's website.

I know I can't wait to head back home for a family visit to see this bridge!